Ten Iconic European Dishes

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Ten Iconic European Dishes

“Who eats will be strong.” Estonian Proverb

If you have fantasized about eating your way through Europe or at the moment even traveling through Europe, I am with you. Each country has their own delicious food but also has one dish that people think of when they think of this country. These traditional foods are not only delectable, but they also tell the story of the country’s history,  I picked ones that I have eaten in no particular order  because I miss traveling and they remind me of countries I have visited, 

Pretzels, Germany

It takes about two hours by train to get to Schwangau from Munich. We are on our way to Neuschwanstein Castle. It was commissioned by Ludwig the Second and is the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. I buy a thick, salty, hot pretzel for the journey to add to what we have already taken from the breakfast buffet at the hotel. Train rides make me hungry.  I need carbs. I learned in Germany that pretzel (German word is bretzel) is a shape and laugen is the pretzel bread. Laugen comes in other shapes as well. I call them pretzel rolls.They are available in every bakery as sandwiches.

 Fondue, Switzerland

When I was sixteen, I took my first  European ski trip. The Alps, the majestic mountain chain that spans across France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria and Germany, are a paradise to visit and to  ski. We stayed in Cervinia on the Italian side and one morning we skied to Zermatt, Switzerland. It was very exciting carrying our passports across the mountains. We went to lunch and I ate fondue for the first time. Fondue means melted in French and this one was made with fresh cheese from the mountain cows. i sat with my friends around a hot pot of melted cheese and dipped pieces of bread. The challenge was not to drop the bread in the pot. One of the customs in the Alps is to finish the fondue with an egg. The egg is dropped in the remaining cheese, mixed until cooked, and then you mix in the remaining chunks of bread. The fondue meal is usually served with sides of salad and charcuterie. It’s the perfect rich warm dish to have when you are skiing.

Stroopwaful, Netherlands 

I stopped in Amsterdam on the way to my daughter’s wedding in Africa. Noordemarkt on Saturday is part antiques market and part famers market. i watched as one of the vendors made stroopwafuls. He took a freshly baked, thin waffle, and coated it with a dark, sugary syrup.  Then he took  another thin waffle, and place it on top of the syrup. I had a momentary thought of  not getting one to make sure I fit into my dress. Amsterdam is one giant stair master and it is never just one flight of stairs so I would probably walk it off on the way back to the hotel. Fresh, hot stroopwafuls are delicious.

 Goulash, Hungary

There was something not warm and fuzzy about being in the former Soviet Union in the early 2000’s. The first thing I noticed in Budapest was that people did not smile.  Older people did not speak English so if you needed to ask a question, “ask young” I was told. They were still trying to find their way between the vestiges of communism and the new capitalism. They had missed the sixties, seventies and eighties.  The results were sometimes odd. I’m sure it is much different now.The national Hungarian dish goulash (stew with beef and vegetables)  and the lighter goulash soup were everywhere. My favorite sign was the restaurant that served sushi and goulash. I’m sure it’s not there anymore  Goulash is comfort food- a thick hearty stew. My friend ate it a lot. You have to eat goulash in Hungary at least once but try the other food as well. I personally liked chimney cake, langos (fried flatbread covered with sour cream, cheese and garlic), stuffed cabbage, sausages  and chicken paprikesh better. 

.Pastel De Nata, Portugal

You can have  pastel de nata everywhere in Portugal. Every single pasteleria (pastry shop) offered pastéis de nata (plural). The famous custard tarts made of egg, puff pastry, milk , sugar, lemon and cinnamon are the most popular sweets in the country.  After visiting the the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, in Belem. I went to the famous bakery, Pasteis de Belem. There is always a line.  The person in front of me said that the bakery began making the original Pastéis de Belém, following an ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimo in 1837. The recipe is a secret and so only the ones bought here are called Pasteis de Belem. The rest are Pasteis de Nata. IF you are in Lisbon, I think it’s good to try the one that is unique in the world and nothing could be more Lisbon than that. 

Pirogi, Poland

I’m not a huge fan of Eastern European food.  But I do feel a country’s food is part of the experience so you have to try it. I walked into a restaurant in Krakow where you can see the food and pointed to something and said in English, “I’ll take that.” The older woman who was waiting on me shook her head no. She did not speak English as most older Eastern Europeans do not. I shrugged and mimed that i was hungry. She laughed and gave me a plate of small dumplings called pierogi.They were filled with meat and were surprisingly tasty. You can get pierogi all over Poland with different fillings like cabbage, mushrooms, cheese, fruit and meat. They are the most affordable dish you can eat in Poland. A teenager came over to me and asked how I liked his grandmother’s pierogi. He said no one makes them as good as she does. I finished the plate and gave her a thumbs up and she laughed. 

 Apfel Strudel, Austria

I think the Viennese coffee house defines Vienna. You can sit for hours with one cup of coffee. In the old city you will find architecturally beautiful coffee houses many originally owned by pre WWll Jews. It is completely normal to sit for hours alone reading the complimentary newspapers or chatting with friends. The word is gemutlichkeit. (coziness, comfortable unhurried).  We went to Café Central home to great philosophers, poets and leaders (such as Leo Trotzky, and Sigmund Freud). We wanted to try the apfel strudel. This is one of Austria’s most popular and traditional desserts. It is thin layers of dough (philo dough-like Baklava), filled with a flavorful apple filling, served warm and accompanied by a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It’s the perfect dessert in the perfect place to linger for one more coffee and one more story before continuing your city touring.

Paella, Spain

One of my first assignments in my high school Spanish class, was to go to a Spanish restaurant and eat something. My friends and I went to a restaurant in Greenwich Village and ate paella. We learned that traditional paella is rice, beans, rabbit, chicken, sometimes duck, and seasonal green vegetables. Seafood Paella is just seafood and rice. Paella Mixta (mixed paella) combines meat from livestock, seafood, vegetables, and sometimes beans, with the traditional rice. it was a dish meant for sharing. Every family in Spain has its own paella recipe and because of the time it takes to make, it is served on Sundays but for some some unknown reason, you can always find paella in restaurants  on Thursday.  Paella originated in Valencia but since i was not going there on my first trip to Spain, I ate paella as soon as I arrived in Barcelona. It is a good dish to eat for lunch.  Don’t eat paella near the Sagrada Familia, or where they have a photo of paella outside or where a man is standing outside telling you they have paella. They know it is the only Spanish food Americans have heard of. I was lucky enough to find a family owned restaurant in Barceloneta to try this delicious iconic dish and then I walked on the beach back to my hotel.

Baklava, Greece

The first time I ate baklava, I was in my teens in Greece. I knew then that I could eat baklava every day. I have spent a few summers in Greece and sometimes I did.  It is the best known dessert in Greece, Turkey and rest of the Middle East. It is just as delicious and a bit different in all these countries.  The ingredients in Greece are phylo pastry, walnuts and sugar syrup or honey.  I like to have it with a cup of Greek coffee.  Afterwards a friend, a friend of a friend, the waiter or a relative will tell your fortune from the coffee grounds. Once the coffee is drunk, you turn the cup a few times around, while you’re making a wish. Then cover the cup with a saucer, and turn it upside down. It takes about 10 minutes to settle on the cup walls and form shapes, essential for the coffee reading revealing events of the near future but also secrets of the past.

 Pizza, Italy

My dream is to go to Sicily and eat pizza. I have not been lucky enough to do that but I have eaten pizza in other Italian cities. My daughter was doing a two week ballet program in Florence. It was a few months after 9/11 and  my first time entertaining myself in a foreign city. There was a bomb threat at the Duomo set for Easter Sunday. (There are no holidays for dancers.)  I decided to avoid the main streets and headed to Dante’s house which is a museum. Florence with its medieval buildings doesn’t look very different  from the time of Dante. Police were everywhere. To calm my nerves, I needed pizza. I walked into a pizza restaurant and heard a lot of Italian which is always a good sign in a tourist area. The availability of good pizza in Italy is impressive. I always feel that to try a pizza you need to order the Margherita. Florence doesn’t disappoint. The pizza was really good and no one set off a bomb that day. 

Fly safe,

JAZ

Things I Wanted To Do In 2016 – Did I?

Things I Wanted To Do In 2016 – Did I?

“Far away there in the sunshine are my highest aspirations. I may not reach them, but I can look up and see their beauty, believe in them, and try to follow where they lead.” Louisa May Alcott

Drink less coffee. Nope

Get more real instagram followers. (travelwellflysafe) A few

Go to Amsterdam. Yes

Go to Anne Frank’s House. Yes

Go to the Van Gogh Museum. Yes

See the tulips. Yes

Meditate everyday.  Have to add this one again.

Train my new puppy. Still doing that.

Be the Pack Leader this time. Nope

Spend more time with my friends.  think I will add this one again-busy year.

Be grateful everyday. Yes

Do more art things in LA. Same

Stretch. Trying

Do more yoga. Less

Go To Paris.Yes

Visit my god-daughter. Yes in Israel.

Go to South Africa.Yes

Go on a game drive.Yes

See the big five.Yes

Be brave. Trying

Hike up Table Mountain. Yes on up Table Mountain

Visit the townships.Yes

Go to Capetown.Yes

Go to Johannesburg.Yes

See my daughter get married.Yes

Fly safe,

JAZ

Walking Alone – Street Art In Amsterdam

“Art is an evolutionary act. The shape of art and its role in society is constantly changing. At no point is art static. There are no rules.” Raymond Salvatore Harmon

Street art in Amsterdam is more satirical and fun then the street art in Third World countries.

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It is much more accepted and looked at as art not vandalism.

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Amsterdam doesn’t have as much street art as Paris , London or Berlin, but if you have a good guide you will find it.

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It is not that hard to find nice street art in Amsterdam.

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Nicole at http://www.streetarteurope.com/street-art-amsterdam-tour/ does an interesting comprehensive, reasonable priced group tour of Amsterdam street on Sundays.

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I had actually never done a group street art tour because it never fit into my schedule in a city.

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It was interesting to see the range of people who were interested in street art.- an older couple from Belgium, middle-aged couple from Shoreditch,who were very proud to be where Banksy was from, and  people from Canada and the States who were living in or visiting friends in Amsterdam.

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Nicole is self taught and passionate about street art. She knows a great deal about the art and the artists and has made a career from her passion and knowledge curating street art in Europe. It is nice to have a tour with someone who clearly loves it as much as the people who signed up for the tour.

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Good street art will tell you a lot about the people who live there.

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C215, Alice Pasquini, Space Invader, The London Police, Shoe, Faile, Icy & Sot, Bustart, Zaira, are all showing in the streets of Amsterdam.

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The London Police are a British street art collective currently painting all over  Amsterdam.

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I loved seeing Icy and Sot’s boy Walking Alone in different places in the city. It was like running into a friend. He is all over Europe now and for some reason he reminds me of the refugees and how lucky I am.

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Laser 3.14 is a street poet whose words are found all over Amsterdam on temporary surfaces only.

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There is a lot more street sculpture in cities around the world these days.   They are usually small and easy to miss without a guide.

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Invader is a street artist known for creating tile pieces that are out of video games.

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He created an app called Flash Invaders that gives you points for finding his work all over the world. He has made a game out of the hunt for street art. Nicole is doing well. I just saw a huge one on Beverly Blvd in LA.

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Street art started as a creative outlet but has turned into a legitimate business with tours, galleries, books, design, fashion and art.

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It definitely has more of an art movement feeling in European cities than the protest feel of South American countries.

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Street art is always beautiful, funny, moving and in this moment in time.

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Fly safe,

JAZ

Art Museums In Amsterdam

Art Museums in Amsterdam

“I’ve become like one of those people I hate, the sort who go to the museum and, instead of looking at the magnificent Brueghel, take a picture of it, reducing it from art to proof. It’s not “Look what Brueghel did, painted this masterpiece” but “Look what I did, went to Rotterdam and stood in front of a Brueghel painting!” David Sedaris

The best place to start exploring art in Amsterdam is the Rijksmuseum.

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Many of Johannes Vermeer’s paintings are housed in the Rijksmuseum and though Girl With A Pearl Earring is in the Hague there is a lot to see. Several Rembrandt paintings are there including Night Watch. There are many rooms devoted to Dutch painters. Allow a few hours.

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The passageway at the Rijksmuseum has the best outdoor acoustics in the city. Many professional musicians come there to practice. It is definitely worth a walk through.

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The Van Gogh Museum is a crowd pleaser . Visit during the week to avoid the crowds.

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However, it’s still worth wading through floods of tourists for a chance to get up close to so many recognizable works of art crafted by such a complicated fascinating man.

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Sex sells . Easy Virtue explores artists’ fascination with prostitution in Paris in the second half of the 19th and start of the 20th centuries.

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It was curated at the Musee D’Orsay in Paris and is now showing at the Van Gogh museum till June. It is confrontational, interesting and beautiful. It is filled with unanswered questions, double standards, hints and clues. Amsterdam with its red light district is a good city for this exhibition.

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The Stedelijk Museum is also located in Museumplein with the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum and is usually overshadowed by them . All three museums are worth visiting because they represent different aspects of Dutch art. The Stedelijk focuses on modern artistic movements and is definitely worth a visit.

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If you are a photography fan or not, the Foam Museum is a cool place to go. They always have fascinating exhibitions and change them often.

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It is a large and interesting space with a great gallery and bookstore. It could be one of the best photography museums in Europe.

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The Rembrandt House Museum consists of a seventeenth century house, his studio and a modern shop.

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He painted many of his masterpieces here.

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The rooms have all been refurbished with art and furnishings of that period. The museum also own most of Rembrandt/s etchings and many are on display.

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The Moco Museum just opened in Amsterdam with an exhibition of work by   Andy Warhol and Banksy.

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It is located also in Museumplein and is hoping to reach a larger younger audience. It opened the day I left and I really wanted to see this.

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There is a lot of art in Amsterdam. So do some research and decide where you want to go or randomly walk into a museum or gallery that looks interesting. You won’t be disappointed.

Fly safe,

JAZ

How to Lose Weight In Amsterdam

How To Lose Weight In Amsterdam

“Like drugs and alcohol, stairs take you up and stairs bring you down. Stairs are neither in one place nor another. They bridge the vertical. Stairs have no allegiance.”Chloe Thurlow

Amsterdam is one giant stairmaster with bicycles, You can eat fresh cheese, poffertjes ( baby pancakes with butter and sugar),brooje (raw herring and pickle sandwich -really),stroopwaffels ( yes they are crispy waffles),Indonesian food and beer and not gain weight. Here is why. When you are not eating – you are walking, riding a bicycle or climbing very steep stairs. It is never just one flight of stairs.

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Fly safe,

JAZ

Jewish Amsterdam

Jewish Amsterdam

“And my conclusion Is, since I had been on very good terms with Anne, that most parents don’t really know their children.” Otto Frank after reading Anne’s diary

One of the most famous residents of Amsterdam is Anne Frank. Every school age child in the United States has read her diary. It has been translated into 67 languages and sold over thirty million copies. She became the voice for those who did not have a voice. The secret annex where Anne, her family and friends had hidden for two years became a museum in 1960.

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The Anne Frank House was at the top of my list of places to visit in Amsterdam. I was much younger than Anne when I read her diary for the first time. Her yearning for love, freedom and peace were very real to me. I wanted to be just like her.  When I saw the bookcase in the house,  it changed from a story to reality. People move slowly and quietly through the annex. The rooms are dark and empty. There are quotes from the diary, pictures on the wall,  an exhibit that tells what happened to the residents  and at the end is a beautiful film which tells how her story affected different people’s lives. There are no photographs allowed.  I was mostly in my head reliving the parts of the story I knew so well.

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I took a walking tour of the Jewish quarter with Jeanette Loeb.  http://jewishhistoryamsterdam.com  Her knowledge of Jewish History in Amsterdam is extensive and I was lucky to find someone who gave such a comprehensive tour. She has a lot of background information and interesting stories about the places we visited  – especially about the Portuguese Jews in Amsterdam.

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The Portuguese Synagogue is Amsterdam was built in 1675. During the Spanish Inquisition, Jews in Spain and Portugal were forced to convert to Catholicism. Many escaped to Amsterdam for freedom of religion. The interior is a single very high, plain, rectangular space with wooden benches built in Dutch Protestant style by Dutch architects.  It survived the Nazi Invasion unscathed because they were going to use the building. 

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The Hollandsche Schouwburg was a popular theatre. In 1941 the Nazis changed the theatre’s name into Joodsche Schouwburg, or, Jewish Theatre. After that, only Jewish actors and artists were allowed to perform there – for a strictly Jewish audience. Between 1942 and 1943 Jews from Amsterdam and surrounding districts were obliged to report at the Hollandsche Schouwburg before being deported. It became a transport center. The Jews were transported to the Dutch transit camps in Westerbork or Vught. These were the last stop before they were herded into trains bound for one of the extermination camps. It is now a memorial.

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Jan Wolkers, a famous Dutch artist and writer, created a  holocaust monument in the Wertheimpark in Amsterdam. The monument called “Broken Mirror”, is made from glass panels and reads “Auschwitz, never again”. It covers an urn filled with ashes from Auschwitz. The mirrors are supposed to reflect that air, sky and the world around us, will never be the same again. it has been vandalized several times. 

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 The Stolperstein Memorial  Project was designed by Berlin artist Gunter Demnig to commemorate the victims of the Holocaust.The stolpersteins  (which means stumbling stones) are small, cobblestone-sized memorials for individual victims of the Nazi regime. The idea was to commemorate them in front of their last chosen place of residence. It is the largest memorial project in the world covering several countries. Demig felt that you have to make a decision to visit a holocaust memorial but with stumbling blocks, you can look down and see them at your feet. It is not a memorial to six million but to individuals – one plus one plus one.

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The Jewish Historical Museum has a permanent collection about the history and culture of the Jewish people in the Netherlands as well as temporary exhibits.  They were currently showing the Amy Winehouse exhibit curated by the Jewish Museum in London. It shows unseen photographs, favorite outfits, her collections, influences and passions and of course her Jewish roots.  I loved the videos of her singing.

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 My mother  who lived during the holocaust used to have one question about politics. “Is it good for the Jews or bad for the Jews?” Amy Winehouse is definitely good for the Jews bringing a younger, hipper clientele to the museum.

Fly safe,

JAZ

Things I Have Learned In Amsterdam

Things I Have Learned In Amsterdam

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“The pleasure we derive from journeys is perhaps dependent more on the mindset with which we travel than on the destination we travel to.”Alain de Botton

There are over one million bikes within the city limits, yet there are only about 700,000 people in Amsterdam.

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Stairs in Amsterdam are many and very steep –  like ladders.  (Rembrandt’s house)

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There are 51 well-known museums that are dedicated to varied topics from the history of sex to the use of marijuana to the life of a famous painter. (Stedlijk Museum)

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The passageway of the Rijksmuseum has the best acoustics in the city and many professional musicians come there to practice.

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The majority of Amsterdam is below sea level. At its lowest point, it is 6.7 metres below sea level. If climate change causes even a small increase in global sea levels, Amsterdam may go under.

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The entire city of Amsterdam was built on piles — massive stakes that are driven into the ground. These piles laid the foundation for every building in the city. This means that if you stay at one of the many Amsterdam hotels, you are actually staying on stilts. Over 6,000 piles are used to hold up Central Station. Regular maintenance keeps these piles in load-bearing condition.

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The lines at the Anne Frank House rivals the Uffizi and the Louvre. Get tickets online in advance.

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Amsterdam Is full of Polyglots. Polyglot is a term used to describe anyone who is fluent in more than two languages. 86 percent of Amsterdam residents are polyglots, speaking English, Dutch and a third language fluently. This makes a trip to Amsterdam an easy experience for English speakers.

Amsterdam residents are the second largest consumers of coffee in the world.

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It’s estimated that during the Golden Age (put here between 1580-1670), when Dutch painters were among the best of the world, 5 million paintings were made – surely one of the most amazing Amsterdam facts. Almost every Dutch home had at least one painting. Now we have iPhones to take pictures of paintings. ( self-portrait Rembrandt – Rijksmuseum)

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Amsterdam natives are the tallest in the world. According to several different studies, this height is attributed to their DNA and healthy eating habits.

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Tulips, tulip fields and flower bulbs are typically Dutch. Yet, tulips do not originate from the Netherlands. The first tulip bulbs were imported from Turkey to the Netherlands, where they proved to grow extremely well on Dutch soil.

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Amsterdam knows how to brew a beer. The Netherlands is the world’s biggest exporter of beer. Twice as much beer is exported from the Netherlands than the United States, the second biggest exporter.

Amsterdam Has More Canals Than Venice .

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Often called the “Venice of the North,” Amsterdam boasts over 165 canals that compose a comprehensive network throughout the entire city.

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Amsterdam has one of the most famous Red Light Districts in the world with window prostitution. There are almost 500 such windows in Amsterdam, next to brothels etc. Most  of the girls are Eastern European, Indonesian and Malaysian. Few are Dutch. There is definitely a lot of human trafficking involved in bringing these girls here.  There are no photos allowed. ( Belle – statue for prostitutes all over the world)

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There are over 200 ‘coffee shops’ in Amsterdam where you are allowed to buy up to five grams of cannabis (marijuana or hash). Since the 1970s, buying of cannabis has been decriminalized. Five grams, by the way, is enough to stay high for several days.

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Someone dropped their hash packet when i was having lunch . He didn’t know. I waited and decided to pick it up and return it. That would not have happened in the states.

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In 2008, a tobacco smoking ban was introduced in Dutch cafes and restaurants, but you are still allowed to smoke marijuana and hashish in Dutch coffee shops – if only you don’t mix it with regular tobacco… That is bad for you.

Fly safe,

JAZ

 

Nine Reasons To Visit Amsterdam That Don’t Involve Smoking Pot And One That Does

Nine Reasons To Visit Amsterdam That Don’t Involve Smoking Pot And One That Does

“Some tourists think Amsterdam is a city of sin, but in truth it is a city of freedom. And in freedom, most people find sin.” John Green

Amsterdam is  probably the best place to visit a coffee shop since this is perfectly legal.You are allowed to buy other drugs as well, but you will have to find someone on the street. If you’re not sure whether a pill you bought is good, you can send it to the government for free and they will test it for you and send it back.

The Diary Of Anne Frank was the most important book I have ever read. It was how I learned about the holocaust and maybe even love. It hit me hard. There are long queues for The Anne Frank House if you don’t get advance tickets. . Get your tickets online before you go. It is a bucket list things for me.

Photos of rainbow carpeted flower fields and bunches of tulips are the iconic symbol of the Netherlands. A short ride away from Amsterdam in Lisse is the Keukenhof Gardens. From March to May tourists, visit this beautiful flower park. I might catch a few windmills on the way.

Amsterdam is a pioneer in green and eco-friendly cities. it is listed as one of the fifteen safest cities in the world.

Watch out for cyclists. The city is famous for bikes. It is a healthy and easy way to see the city.

The Dutch love their street markets. Every day of the week you will find vendors setting up stalls somewhere in the city. There are different markets for antiques, art, produce, fashion and vintage. There is something for everyone at Amersterdam’s markets.

Gouda and Edam are among my many favorite cheeses. There are five traditional cheese markets in the Netherlands. I’m planning to go to one.

Canals are everywhere. Getting around can be a bit confusing because everything sort of looks the same. ( especially after you visit the coffee shops) . It gives the city a unique and beautiful atmosphere.

Amsterdam’s most famous and unique tourist site is the red light district. Whatever your opinion of women on sale in windows, you won’t see it anywhere else. Pictures are forbidden and your camera will be confiscated if it is seen.

There are plenty of museums to check out as well. The Van Gogh museum has permanent queues in front of it, to see some beautiful paintings by the most famous Dutch artist of all time – even if he wasn’t well known at all in his lifetime. The “Potato Eaters” is there. The Rijksmuseum is huge and needs several hours to go through and has many paintings by Vermeer and Rembrandt.

Goede reis,

JAZ