Things I Have Learned In Salta, Argentina

Posted on July 13, 2013 by jaynezak

“Should you shield the canyons from the windstorms, you would never see the beauty of their carvings.” Elisabeth Kubler-Ross

Salta is a province in Northwest Argentina. Matt Damon and Robert Duvall are married to women from Salta.

One of the most beautiful drives in Argentina is from Cafayate to Salta City through Quebrado de Cafayate -especially if red is your color.

The view is breathtaking. It looks like Arizona but it is much more accepting of Hispanic people.

Stops along the way include the dis Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat),

snacks,

a musician-friendly natural amphitheater,

other natural rock formations that look like a frog, a saint and an obelisk.(frog)

and shopping,

Anywhere you’d like to stop and take a photo is worth it.

The road from Cachi to Molinos is not so paved.

Cachi is quiet.

San Carlos is quiet.

Molinos is quieter.

The house of the last Spanish governor has become the Hacienda Molinos and is the place to stay in Molinos. I didn’t see any other places to stay so literally it is the place to stay.

This is the library in Molinos. This is the address of the library. If there is anything you can send them – Spanish and English books, they can really use it. Send books to Norma Susana Fabian, Pje 9 de Julio S/N, Molinos C.P. (4419), Provincia Salta C.P. 4400, Argentina.

The library is the size of this table and the small number of books are old and worn. People come in and borrow books and Norma writes it down in her notebook.

Dont go to Molinos expecting things like tourist attractions, restaurants, shopping and internet. Do go expecting quiet, few cars, natural beauty, clean air, kids playing soccer and riding bikes instead of video games, a sky covered in stars, horses and a lot of stray friendly dogs.

And more dogs. Molinos and all of these pueblos in the north, have their share of stray dogs. They are only too willing to give you a tour of their town.

And llamas

and horses

and goats

And sheep. ( and a pig who thinks he is a sheep) And of course meat

What is this man thinking?

What is this horse thinking?

Coquena is a vicuna refuge outside of Molinos.

Outside Cachi you will find chilis drying in the sun on the side of Ruta 40.

Difunta Correa (Deceased Correa) a is one of the best known Argentine alternative saints. She died of thirst in the San Juan desert around 1845. She was trying to find her husband in the army. She was carrying her baby who was found miraculously alive by gauchos. In 1898 a famous gaucho prayed to Difunta Correa to find his herd of 500 lost cattle and she did. The story spread and a sanctuary was built around her grave. Cattle ranchers and truck drivers have created roadside altars. People leave water bottles to calm her eternal thirst. You will also see water bottles just tied to the side of the road for her. (I think it says this is my sanctuary you can pray to me for help but no garbage)

Salta City has the best collection of preserved colonial architecture in Argentina. It is named Salta, La Linda because of the beautiful architecture.

It has oddly colored churches -baby blue, burgundy and gold and shell pink. It is best not to wear a hat inside the church, though opinion is divided on that.

MAAM Museo de Arqueologia de Alta Montana de Salta. houses the perfectly preserved remains of three Inca children “given” to the gods 500 years ago. They were buried at the top of the volcanoe Llullaillaco (6700 meters high). There is one child on display at a time. They look like they are sleeping. The children were believed to have been buried as part of the Capacocha sacrifice. The sacrifices were performed on children, as they were seen to be the purest of beings. A beautiful male and female child would be chosen and then married. The children were taken to the summit of a mountain, given an intoxicating drink to make them pass out and then they would be strangled, hit over the head or buried alive. The three children found at Llullaillaco were believed to have been buried alive during their sacrifice and are estimated to have only been 15, 7 and 6 years of age. It is disturbing to have this insight into the Inca culture and see what was done to children from the conquered tribes in the name of peace and unity.

Salta is also home to a world-class symphony orchestra, the result of a successful strategy several years ago of recruiting Eastern Europeans, virtuoso trained in the communist era, to play alongside and mentor local musicians.

The teleflorico San Bernando is a way to get a view of the city usually reserved for incoming airplanes.

The top of the mountain has a restaurant, various lookout points, a playground, waterfalls, a downhill biking adventure and an outdoor gym for the newest in high altitude workouts.

Faster internet is coming to the Calchaqui valley. (see this road -we are directly facing this truck going in the opposite direction)

Ponchos have been made in the Andes for hundreds of years. Argentines value artisans and Arnaldo Guzman does beautiful work.

Quebrada de las Flechas (canyon of the arrows) is located in the Calchaqui valley. It’s inclined pointy rock formations and narrow gorges make it an interesting tourist site on Argentina’s route 40.

It is some of the driest topography in the world and home to a number of UFO sightings.

Los Cardones is a spectacular national park located ain the Calchaquíes Valley. It covers 65.000 hectares of hills and gorges, with an altitude ranging 2.700 and 5.000 m. It is filled with cardone cacti.( my new Bolivian/Argentine hat)

The cacti stand like giant sculptures with blue sky and the Andes in the background.

The cardone cactus is the world’s largest cactus. It is most common in Baja California. Im from Southern California yet I had to go to Salta Argentina to see them for the first time. They grow slowly and can live up to 300 years.

Cardone cacti are a source of wood that is apparently as strong as iron, and used for rafters, doors, ceilings, window frames, furniture, and souvenirs.

Northern Argentina is a place filled with mountains that continually change colors, ancient indigenous culture and traditions, pueblos that go back in time and landscapes that keep on surprising you with their beauty.

Our local tour guide on this Cultural Xplorers trip (www.culturexplorers.com/) was Homero Kosiner. We traveled for almost two weeks. He was easy-going, always happy, very knowledgeable and proud of his city and Northwest Argentina .No question was too small for Homero to answer. We covered a lot of ground on this trip and it was confusing to keep track of. Homero answered my questions over and over and is still answering. I also have to thank our driver Vicente Coria. Between the unpaved roads, river beds, narrow hairpin turns, mountain roads, one lane roads, animals, and hours of driving, Vicente was superb and always smiling.

Viaje Con Cuidado,

JAZ

White Walls Say Nothing – Urban Art In Buenos Aires

Posted on June 30, 2013 by jaynezak

White Walls Say Nothing – Urban Art In Buenos Aires

“First day of Advanced Art, my teacher said “I bet none of you know an artist who is currently alive” I raised my hand and said “Banksy” he shook his head and said he wasn’t a real artist, that is when I knew he wasn’t a real art teacher.” Ariel Dennis

Streets are the world’s biggest gallery and in Buenos Aires, graffimundo are the curators. graffitimundo is a nonprofit organization that promotes street art in Buenos Aires. They have group tours every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at 3 :00 PM and private tours available. It is a great way to see the street art of Buenos Aires. Contact them at http://graffitimundo.com/.

It is not exactly illegal to paint on the outside walls in Buenos Aires. As long as the artists have the consent of the building owners, it is fine. There are many unoccupied spaces and dividing walls between buildings. This gives plenty of locations for artists to bring a wall to life.

It is possible to come across artists painting during the day on the walls. This is unheard of in most other cities. Urban artists come from all over the world to paint here. They don’t have to run in the night and have time to create some beautiful thought-provoking pieces.

I love graffiti art. My dog is named after a graffiti artist. It is the art of the community. People have always written on walls-from cave paintings to love hate propaganda to murals of epic detail and size. You have to be really committed to paint on a wall knowing it won’t be there forever. The paint will fade, cracks will form or someone can paint over it. It’s a product of the moment. It is art for art’s sake and not for sale.

I don’t even mind the writing graffiti. It is some form of communication. When I used to see the freshly painted writing on the trains in NY (I thought it looked great), I would think – another person who has a found a way to express his anger without a gun. Of course, I’m not the woman in Buenos Aires who washes it off her walls every day or the people who clean up hate crimes of “art”. There was one street where a father kept writing I love you to his kids. I wonder what he did that he had to write it all over the walls. There are always stories.

Johnny Robson was my tour guide and founder of graffitmundo. They started it because they thought the urban art scene in Buenos Aires was amazing. There was no information about it. graffitimundo was formed to help share what they had learned with anyone who was interested. It was their way to support people who were incredibly talented and under appreciated.

Johnny is passionate and knowledgeable about the art, artists and their style of painting on the streets of BA. Every artist and every picture tells a story and Johnny is only too happy to tell them all. Halfway into the tour , I find myself recognizing artists and styles. The pieces are dynamic. Some express political and social messages and some may just express emotion. They are filled with energy, color and life.

You get to see streets all over Buenos Aires as well. On the tour we visited walls in Palermo, Villa Crespo, Chacarita and Colegiales.

I loved the collaborative pieces. In the early graffiti years, Crews (art gangs) have always worked together to paint on the subways and streets. This gave way to Collaboratives – sometimes political -that could do more than an individual artist. According to Johnny, the artists are happy to share the walls with other talented artists. Another reason urban artists like to paint in BA.

We stop off at Hollywood in Cambodia (great name for a gallery) an urban art gallery located on the first floor above Post Bar in Palermo with a rooftop terrace. Americans would probably call it the second floor. It is run by a few art collectives. I want to buy everything, but settle on a couple of pieces that I can carry.

There is not an empty space of wall in the bar below either.

The title of this piece is also the title of a documentary that will be out soon. “White Walls Say Nothing” is a feature documentary, produced by White Wall Industries in association with graffitimundo. It is the story of Buenos Aires Urban Art Scene as told by the artists. I can’t wait to see it.

I highly recommend this tour in Buenos Aires if you are interested in modern art or street culture. For hipsters and scenesters it is the coolest thing to do (unless you are actually painting on the walls)

I’m still amazed by the amount of street art and quality of some of the pieces I saw that day. I turned a corner and I saw a painting that I wanted to look at for a long time . I watched people walk by and not even look up. It’s crazy that they didn’t see what they were missing. Because art , like luck is where you find it.

Viaje con cuidado,

JAZ

Things I Have Learned In Buenos Aires

Posted on June 21, 2013 by jaynezak

Things I Have Learned In Buenos Aires

“The two elements the traveler first captures in the big city are extra human architecture and furious rhythm. Geometry and anguish.” Federico Garcia Lorca

Recoleta Cemetery is the final resting place of the good, the bad, the beautiful and the rich people of Argentina’s past. It is a remarkable necropolis of tombs and mausoleums. It is proportioned like a miniature village with its stately Greco-Roman crypts lining the narrow walkways. They believed “the bigger the mausoleum, the closer to God. “ It is less expensive to live your whole life in Buenos Aires than it is to be buried in Recoleta.

There are approximately eighty cats who live at the Recoleta cemetery. They say that they are the guardians/ tour guides of the 4800 tombs and have been taken care of for twenty years. Everyone including me takes photos of them.

When you enter the cemetery through the neoclassical gates (designed by the Italian architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo.) There are two messages in Latin. The message on this inside is from the living to the dead and says rest in peace. On the outside, it is from the dead to the living and says Wait for God.

You have found Eva Peron’s flower strewn monument when you see people. She is buried among the rich people who did not like her.

Outside the cemetery on Saturdays is the Feria Artesanal Plaza Independente Alvear, Recoleta. It is a sprawling arts and crafts market. They sell leather goods, indigenous products, art, souvenirs and snacks. I bought some really good gifts there. (artist Pablo Maino)

Buenos Aires like Paris is a city of street markets on Saturdays and Sundays.

Drivers in Buenos Aires love to break the rules. Six AM is a dangerous time to be on the road as many people are heading home from milongas and dance clubs.

It turns out that Argentina has great ice cream. (or helado in Spanish). The blend of Italian immigrants bringing their tradition of making gelato, with high quality and creamy milk, combine to make some of the best ice cream in the world. Un Altra Volta is always a good place to go and they have a few locations. The Dulce De Leche is really tasty.

La Boca means the mouth in Spanish. The La Boca barrio is located at the mouth of the Riachuelo. It was originally a shipyard and housed the people who worked there. The houses were built with cast-off ship building materials, meaning that they were largely constructed of planks, sheet metal and corrugated iron. They were painted in different colors because they used whatever colors were brought in on the ships. There never seemed to be enough paint in one color.

Caminito is the colorful artist/tourist street by the river. In 1960, La Boca artist Benito Quinquela Martín painted the walls of what was then an abandoned street and erected a makeshift stage for performances. It attracted the artists, followed by the tourists, tourist hustlers and bland tourist restaurants.

It is fun to see the open air tango display and I bought some nice photographs from an artist on the street. If you are going at night, take taxis to and from your destination. It is still a rough working class barrio. (artist Doralisa Romero)

Throughout history and male dominated governments, women were supposed to suffer injustice in silence. During the reign of the military junta it is believed that 30,000 to 45,000 people “disappeared”. These victims were sons and daughters. In 1976 a small group of mothers walked around the Plaza Mayo holding photos of their missing children. The protests were not legal. A woman’s place was in the home. The women said a mother’s place is to protect and find her missing children and so they protested on a technicality. Some of the early protestors went missing as well. The women began to wear white headscarves. The movement grew throughout Latin America. Sting and U2 recorded songs about them. In 2006 President Kirchner declared unconstitutional the laws used to imprison the Disappeared. Following this move, the Madres ceased their annual protest marches. (U2 on UTube)

Today the Madres de Plaza de Mayo are the largest civil rights organization in Argentina. In addition to their initial work to find the disappeared, the Madres have tried to continue the work of their lost children. They have set up a newspaper, a radio station and a university.And they continue to fight for social justice. The march every Thursday afternoon at 3:30.

MALBA (Museo de Latinoamericano Arte de Buenos Aires) has an interesting permanent collection and should not be missed by anyone interested in art.

The building was designed to interact with art. A bench is not just a bench. (bench, bench continues)

The gallery space is sectional yet fluid The permanent collection consists of painting, sculpture, photography, print, drawing, and installations. Visitors see major works by Xu Solar, Diego Rivera, Antonio Berni, Frida Kahlo and Jorge de la Vega, and a host of other modern masters from Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Ecuador, Mexico, Uruguay, and Venezuela. (Antonio Berni -love this piece)

The Teatro Colon celebrated its hundredth birthday in 2008. Its first performance in 1908 was Aida. The theatre is said to have one the best acoustics in the world. It is listed as one of the top five opera houses in the world. It is the only stage that Pavarotti was nervous to perform on. A massive 100 million dollar renovation was completed in 2010 and tours of the beautiful building are conducted daily in English and Spanish. Better yet, see a performance. You can get tickets online before you go.

Arte BA one of the largest and most important art fairs in Latin America was held in Buenos Aires May 24-27. Eighty two galleries from Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, United States, Peru and Uruguay participated. It was really fun and interesting and they seemed to have a lot of sales. (art by Marta Minujin)

Eva Peron is a controversial figure in Argentine history. Museo Evita opened on July 26, 2002, the 50th anniversary of her death, in a mansion where her charity, the Eva Perón Foundation, once housed single mothers with children. The placement of the house here had been meant as a direct affront to the wealthy neighbors who hated Evita.

The museum treats her history fairly looking at the good and the bad. Her things have been remarkably preserved by the military government that took power after Juan Peron. Whether you love her, hate her or don’t care either way, she is an important part of Argentine history and you should see the museum.

Drink a cup of freshly roasted coffee ( I like cortado -small coffee with a splash of milk) with a crispy medialuna (Argentinian croissant) at Café Tortoni. A good place to try one is the city’s most traditional café. It was founded in 1858. Café Tortoni has doubled as both a Bohemian and literary joint over the years. It is touristy but I am a tourist . I like to mix the places I’ve heard about with the places only locals know.

I preferred La Biela , opened in 1950 near the Recoleta Cemetery. Biela means the connecting hot rod of an engine. It was frequented by early car owners and race car drivers. Their black and white photos decorate the walls. It went on to become popular with artists writers and politicians. It has life-size statues of Argentine writers Borges and Casares sitting at a table in the front of the café.

Great steak can be had at many places. I had it at La Cabrera http://www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar/ in Palermo Soho. It was the size of my head but buttery and delicious.

Palermo is the largest barrio ( neighborhood) in Buenos Aires. It has beautiful parks, polo fields and many subdivisions. The most well-known for tourists are Palermo Viejo – home to Jorge Luis Borges and Che Guevara; Palermo Hollywood named because in the nineties a number of radio and tv producers moved there. Today it is known for restaurants, clubs and nightlife. Palermo Soho, as with its London and NY namesakes, is a trendy area for fashion, design, restaurants, bars and street culture. Its “alternative” reputation makes it popular with Argentine Yuppies and tourists.

The Teatro Grand Splendid was built in 1919 as a theatre for top tier tango concerts. What a wonderful name for a theatre. Tango legends such as Carlos Gardel, Francisco Canaro, Roberto Firpo, and Ignacio Corsini performed here. Building proprietor Max Glucksman was a leading figure in the world of tango in his own right, as owner of the influential Nacional-Odeon record label. In 1929, the theater underwent its first transformation to become a cinema, with the distinction of being the first in Buenos Aires to show sound film. Glucksman’s love of tango carried over to the new cinema, with live tango orchestration accompanying the silent films projections.

Its latest transformation is the El Ateneo bookstore. The painted ceiling, detailed balconies, and stage are all intact. The private boxes are now small reading rooms. The stage is a café. The shelves fit perfectly around the theater’s original shape. The book collection is pretty standard and mostly in Spanish, it is an amazing place to buy a book or have a coffee on the famous stage.

Going to a soccer game with one of the local clubs is a must do in Buenos Aires. I got to go to a Boca Jr, game at La Bombonera in La Boca. The fans are as exciting as the game. They spit, throw garbage, scream at each other, sing and often dump water or urine on the people sitting below them if they don’t like what is happening. The Bocas tied the Newell Old Boys and fifty people got arrested. It was a great first night in Buenos Aires.

I would not have had such an amazing time without the help of tour guides Marcelo Mansilla (info@ciceroneba.com.ar ) and Fabian Ali ( fali@culturacercana.com.ar) . Muchas gracias for all your great suggestions, insight, kindness and knowledge of your very beautiful city. (Marcelo)

Buen Viaje,

JAZ

Things I Have Learned In Argentina

Posted on June 16, 2013 by jaynezak

Things I Have Learned In Argentina

“I am not sure that I exist, actually. I am all the writers that I have read, all the people that I have met, all the women that I have loved; all the cities I have visited.”

―Jorges Luis Borges (Argentine writer)

An asado in Argentina is every carnivore’s dream. Gather your friends, drink wine and coca cola and stuff yourself with meat.

Futbol (soccer) is a passion of the Argentine people. Every pueblo has at least one soccer field. When you fly into Buenos Aires you will see many.

Carlos Gardel is to tango what Elvis Presley is to rock and roll.

Art Graffiti is not exactly illegal in Argentina. You can paint on street walls in broad daylight. Graffiti artists from all over the world come here to paint.

Cristina Kirchner (Presidente of Argentina) takes a helicopter to work everyday from her house in the suburbs of Buenos Aires. You can see the Argentine tax dollars at work.

Argentina is considered to be the most literate country in South America. They were the first to publish Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s One Hundred Years Of Solitude when others turned him down. (It is one of my favorite books so I thought I would mention it)

In Peru, I learned about what the Spanish did to the Incas. In Argentina I learned about what the Incas did to the tribes living there. Conquerors are never all that innocent. (Pucara of Tilcara- pre Inca fortification)

Driving on unpaved roads for hours in Jujuy-not so much fun; seeing the salt flats in Salinas Grandes -priceless.

A mechanical saint will come out of a door in the town hall of Humahuaca at 12:00 pm. He will wave his arms, music will play and you will be blessed. Sometimes religion is that easy.

Birds eat the parasites off animals. When you see a bird on a horse, he is working.

There are at least twenty-four legal holidays in Argentina. There is Flag Day.. There is the day to celebrate the person who made the flag. There is Friend’s Day. There is the day to celebrate the moon landing. I get the feeling Argentines’ don’t like to work so much.

Ruta 40 goes throughout Argentina like Route 66 goes through the United States.

Chile and Argentina have their problems but things are better in the last few years. It is usually about borders and waters.

Most of the tobacco grown here. Is for export to the US and China.

Argentina charges an entry fee of one hundred and sixty dollars to all visitors from the U.S. It must be paid online before the date of entry or they may not let you in when you get there. According to Argentines, this is because of all the Argentines who have paid visa fees and been denied visas. i don’t know if this is true but it sounded good.

Argentina is the largest producer and consumer of Yerba Mate. (mate cups – number one Argentine souvenir)

Eating kidneys (rimones),intestines (chinchulines), ribs, testicles, black sausage, any glands and sweetbreads is delicious to someone other than me. (intestines, etc)

It is mandatory to vote in Argentina.

Many Argentines did not like Eva Peron.

Argentines have an amazing ability to mobilize a protest. They will stand up for what they think is right or wrong and let it be heard. Late November to early January is protest high season where many of the unions will demand raises due to the out of hand inflation that takes place here every year. Drop by Plaza de Mayo or Plaza Congreso. I was there on May 25th Argentine Independence Day. They were protesting.

Paraguay is the largest producer of Marijuana. Canada is the largest exporter to the United States.

Argentine Polo players are among the best in the world. Serious polo tournaments are held here. From September to December the best polo players play in Argentina.

An altitude of 4170 meters means 13,682 feet above sea level and a headache.

An estancia is a ranch or farm with a big hacienda. They are usually many hectares. We visited many estancias for lunch. They all served asado.

Anything can be made from salt. (like this table)

Llamas and alpacas are domestic animals. Vicunas and guanacos are wild and usually cannot mate in activity. ( wild vicunas)

There are exceptions. (Coquenos, el refugio de las vicunas )

Vicunas are the Princes and Princesses of the Andes.

The Argentine government has a list of names for new babies. If the name you choose is not on the list, you cannot legally use it. Today, people can petition the government to add more names.

Gay marriage has been legal here for about year. Recently they have had their first gay divorce.

The new Pope is from Argentina.

Argentina has close affection for cinema. They have the highest rates of movie viewing in the world. They like watching both locally made movies and Hollywood flicks.

For all those who love animated films – The world’s first animated films were created and released in Argentina, by a person named Quirino Cristiani in 1917.

Argentines pronounce the LL as a soft G. They say Ja-ma for llama and pa–ree-ja for Parilla. In Salta they sometimes pronounce their R as a soft G and say peh-jo for perro. It sounds a littler Portuguese sometimes.

Argentines can smoke and own Marijuana but they cannot buy it or sell it.

Argentines can chew and posess Coca Leaves but it is illegal to buy and sell them. (Look for the Bolivian women in the square in Humahuaca, the leaves help with altitude sickness).

Condors mate in the air and mate for life. if the female dies, the male commits suicide. If the male dies, the female takes another mate for the procreation of the species. There is a lesson here. I am not sure what it is.

If a person in Argentina is carrying an iPad or IPhone, he probably bought it on the black market or he is not an Argentine.

Argentines have a coffee and a sweet around 6:00pm. Dulce De Leche is always a good choice. As I have gained a few kilos on this trip , I wish I had chosen it less.

Restaurants do not open for dinner until nine o clock. Most people eat dinner after ten. I did not understand that until I had been here for a week and eaten that huge lunch every day around two o clock. I did not get hungry till ten. You can be like the Argentines and eat meat again or be like the Americans and have soup, bread and cheese. I also completely now understand the need for the siesta till five. Having wine, meat and potatoes at lunch makes you sleepy in the afternoon.

Most public schools go from eight to twelve or one to five. They have less hours of school than we do. Their literacy rate is 97.5 per cent. Some people feel it is ok and others feel that it is too little and save for private school. Their school uniform is a white lab coat.

A dog’s best friend is his llama (pronounced jama).

Police in Argentina are known to be corrupt.

In Argentina you can dry your own red chilies in the sun.

They say that Argentina got the Iguazu Falls and Brazil got the view. I don’t know about that. They are pretty spectacular in Argentina. (complete with a real rainbow)

It takes ten minutes by rowboat to get to Paraguay from Misiones, Argentina. (view of Paraguay across the Parana River from our house)

Argentina is one of the largest producers of wines since the 16th century and has around 1800 wineries. Malbec is their most planted grape. The irrigation system was started centuries ago by Indians. It is the fifth largest wine-producing country.

Studies have shown that red wines are much better than white wines in preventing heart disease. Scientists believe that the polyphenols in red wine seeds and skins are the reason for this. High altitude wines are particularly rich in polyphenols. This is because UV radiation increases at higher elevations and results in a greater concentration of polyphenols in these wines. We visited many high altitude vineyards in Salta province.(Colome)

Torrontes is a white Argentine wine grape which produces a wine with moderate acidity and a smooth texture. I like it.

Cars have the right of way on the road. (from front of van – goats running to the side of the road – big deal for the city kid.)

Cows move slower.

Everything can be made out of cactus.

If you are planning to change pesos back into dollars at the Argentine airport as I was, don’t. Christina doesn’t allow you to give back pesos at the airport. What you change in Argentina, stays in Argentina.

Buen Dia and Fly Safe

Jayne

Travel Well, Fly Safe

Travel

Category Archives: Argentina

Things I Have Learned In Salta, Argentina

White Walls Say Nothing – Urban Art In Buenos Aires

Things I Have Learned In Buenos Aires

Things I Have Learned In Argentina