The Time Is Ixnau – Street Art In Capetown, South Africa

The Time Ixnau  – Street Art In Capetown, South Africa

“Graffiti is beautiful; like a brick in the face of a cop.” Hunter S. Thompson

Woodstock is a creative changing area of Capetown.

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After enjoying lunch and shopping at the Old Biscuit Mill, (a Saturday market of food, crafts and neighborhood goods) I took a street art tour with Juma Mkwela a  local street artist and guide.juma.mkwela@gmail.com. 

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Juma was born in Malawi and lived in Zimbabwe. He is now an established Capetown street artist and craftsman who leads  walking tours of the murals in Woodstock.

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Woodstock is a canvas for some interesting street art.

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The area where the artists paint is a little poorer and rougher but there is gentrification going on all around.

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Juma is friends with everyone so there are no safety worries when you are with him.

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International street artists such as  Masai (UK), AEC Interesni Kazki (Ukraine), Pure Evil (UK), Remed (Spain), Gaia (USA), JAZ (Argentina), Know Hope (Israel), Makatron (Australia) have painted here.  (interesni Kazki – Ukraine)

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There are also murals by Cape Town based artists including Faith47 (ZA), DALeast (China), Urbanski (Germany), Freddy Sam (ZA), Nard Star (ZA) and Indi Go (Canada) and Kasi. (Kasi, Nard Star)

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The artists  showcase issues such as the rich poor divide,  climate change, the poaching of endangered wildlife and exploitation of the  natural resources (such as diamonds).

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They need permission from the residents to paint on the walls.

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Street Art has a historical meaning  in South Africa because during Apartheid it was one of the  ways people had to express their anger.

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It was a visual act of defiance and rebellion.

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Socially conscious artists from South Africa and beyond have joined forces to help spruce up, and add color to the  poorer parts of this neighborhood.

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The philosophy behind the murals is motivated by the belief that art can aid in the social and economic regeneration of dilapidated, gang blighted urban areas.

DSC00898The time is ixnau.

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Fly safe,

JAZ

Things I Have Learned In South Africa

Things I Have Learned In South Africa

“Cry, the beloved country, for the unborn child that’s the inheritor of our fear. Let him not love the earth too deeply. Let him not laugh too gladly when the water runs through his fingers, nor stand too silent when the setting sun makes red the veld with fire. Let him not be too moved when the birds of his land are singing. Nor give too much of his heart to a mountain or a valley. For fear will rob him if he gives too much.” Alan Paton

Four of the five fastest land animals in the world live in South Africa: the cheetah, the springbok the wildebeest, and the lion.

DSC01635South Africa is the second largest exporter of fruit in the world.

South Africa has the longest wine route in the world.

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Walt Disney serves South African wine exclusively at its 73-acre Animal Kingdom Lodge in the United States.

South Africa is the only country in the world to voluntarily abandon its nuclear weapons program.

Peppermint crisp is something every South African grew up with.

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Drivers use the left-hand side of the road in South Africa and drive on the opposite side of the car  like London.

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South Africa is home to the highest commercial bungy jump in the world, called Bloukrans Bridge Bungy (216 meters).

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OR Tambo airport is the busiest in Africa processing about 9 million passengers a year.

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South Africa has the cheapest electricity in the world.

South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique are tearing down fences between the countries’ game parks to create a 13,500 square mile game park, which will become the largest conservation area in the world. It will be bigger than Switzerland, Belgium or Taiwan.

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South Africa is now the only country in the world to have hosted the Soccer, Cricket and Rugby World Cup! (Capetown Stadium)

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The oldest remains of modern humans were found in South Africa and are well over 160,000 years old. (Cradle Of Humankind)

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South Africa has a penguin colony, which thrives thanks to the cold Antarctic currents on the west coast near the Cape. (Boulder Beach)

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Rooibos tea has become a worldwide favorite for its fresh taste and excellent health properties. It is only grown in a small region (in the Cederberg) of South Africa and has to be exported in massive quantities from here.

What about beer? South African brewery SAB Miller ranks – by volume – as the largest brewing company in the world. Saffers love their beer…but the real reason the brewery is so big? SABMiller also supplies up to 50% of China’s beer.

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South Africa is rated thrd in the world in supplying safe, drinkable tap water.

This is the only country with two Nobel Peace Prize winners who lived on the same street. Both Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu had houses on Vilakazi Street in Soweto.

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South Africa has had an unsettled history, with apartheid policies made by the National Party enforcing a system of segregation from 1948 until 1994. (Apartheid Museum)

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Nelson Mandela was elected president in 1994 after South Africa’s first universal elections.

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The deepest mine is a gold mine in South Africa. in 1977 the Western Deep Levels Mine reached a depth of 11,749 feet. Most mines descend to about 3,300 feet.

Dr. Christiaan Barnard, at Groote Schuur Hospital in Cape Town, performed the first human heart transplant in the world in 1967. He was also the first to do a “piggyback” transplant in 1971, and he was the first to do a heart-lung transplant.

South Africa is the largest producer of meat in Africa.

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There are about 280,000 windmills on farms across South Africa, second in number only to Australia.

There are more than 2000 shipwrecks odd the coast of South Africa some dating back five hundred years.

South Africa has 19,004 miles of railway track – 80% of Africa’s rail infrastructure.

The world’s largest diamond was the Cullinan Diamond, found in South Africa in 1905. It weighed 3,106.75 carats uncut. It was cut into the Great Star of Africa, weighing 530.2 carats, the Lesser Star of Africa, which weighs 317.40 carats, and 104 other diamonds of nearly flawless color and clarity. They now form part of the British crown jewels.

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A South African sunset goes on forever.

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Fly safe,

JAZ

Visiting Community Projects In The Townships In Capetown, South Africa With Uthando

Visiting Community Projects In The Townships In Capetown With Uthando

“With love and joy, have happiness. “ Xolani from Uthando

Townships are holdovers from apartheid, when non-whites were forced to live in large communities. All townships around South Africa evolved over time, many of them turning into small cities. Unlike a real city though, townships lack key aspects of infrastructure, like sewage, universal running water, and well-organized electrical grids. Townships still exist today, but they’re changing and many have distinct sections of middle-class people as well as the very poor. There is most definitely poverty in a township, but that poverty doesn’t define the experience.

I feel as a middle class white woman that when I travel it is my responsibility to raise my awareness about how ninety per cent of the world lives. My visit to a township will not save anyone from poverty. It will probably not change anyone’s life – except my own.

I was going to be in Capetown with friends and family and I found Uthando (uthandosa.org) on the internet. Uthando is a nonprofit company that oversees many different community projects in the townships In South Africa. I was interested  in going but was a bit concerned. There has recently been criticism about this new kind of tourism where visitors are feeling enriched by going to the townships and gawking at the poor standard of living. Uthando is different. Uthando raises money and awareness for the many projects they fund through these tours. You are driven through very poor areas in the townships directly to these programs.

I went with my daughter and some of her friends. We were lucky enough to visit a few programs. We started in Guguletsu. We went to the Zama Dance school. It is run by professional ballet dancers and is in one of the nicest dance spaces I’ve seen. The dancers are focused and trying really hard to follow the strict rules and postures of ballet.

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We  continued on to the Seniors Project. The women proudly showed us their intricate  handicrafts and their beautiful center. Creating their interesting pieces and interacting with tourists gave them confidence, self-respect, some income and a voice.

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Xolisa is in charge of the  Isikhokelo Primary School Garden Project.

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He loves gardening and is teaching the community to grow their own food.

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Amy Biehl was an American student from Stanford University who was murdered in Capetown while working against apartheid. Her family and friends started the Amy Biehl Foundation  in Khayelitsha to continue her work and help at risk children in the townships. We came after school and there were incredible music, dance, singing and acting programs going on. The kids were really talented. I was blown away by the fact that they were rehearsing Merchant Of Venice.

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There was energetic African dancing, incredibly beautiful voices in the choral class and  excellent musicians.

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After school programs like these promote self-discovery, problem-solving skills, opportunities for positive risk taking, mastery of artistic skills and resiliency.

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James Fernie, the director of Uthando, took us around. It is amazing that he has been able to incorporate so many small community programs into his organization.

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We only saw a few of them.

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One person cannot change the world alone. Development is a much larger and involved process. We are more likely to have small impacts than world-changing ones. I strongly urge anyone going to Capetown to contact Uthando and spend a half day with them.

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Whether I choose to experience the poverty and see what people like James Fernie of Uthando are doing to help or not, we still all occupy the same planet. We are all human beings. My responsibility as a fellow citizen of this world  is the same, whether I choose to see it and acknowledge it, help in any way I can, or do nothing.

Fly safe,

JAZ

How To Bring A Wedding Dress From Los Angeles to Kruger National Park, South Africa (A cell phone documentation)

How To Bring A Wedding Dress From Los Angeles To Kruger National Park, South Africa
(A cell phone documentation)

“Even the elephant carries but a small trunk on his journeys. The perfection of traveling is to travel without baggage.” Henry David Thoreau

I met up with the WD in Paris.

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It had made the trip from LA. The WD had been packed with great care for the journey. The dress had already been through one security machine and one Air France closet.

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The bride walked out carrying the hanger high above her head with one arm. The dress was draped over her back. She wanted no help.

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We had a 12 hour layover in Paris until our next flight. The dress hung in a hotel closet while we had lunch and saw Versailles and the Louis Vuitton Foundation. The dress was happy. (Louis Vuitton Foundation designed by Frank Gehry)

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In the airport in Paris I noticed the bride’s arm had dropped a bit and the bottom of the dress was dragging on the floor. The bag was getting a bit dirty. The bride decided it was now to be a two person job. The mother of the bride was happy.

The dress went through a second security machine. ( In pre 9/11 travel this would not have happened) The mother of the bride was nervous but did not say anything.

We land in Johannesburg and change to South African Airways.

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The mood is festive. People start calling out “Is that my dress? Are you bringing this to me? Am I invited to the wedding?” There is a discussion at security as to the best way to put the dress through the machine safely. They straighten the bag carefully before it goes through. I’m beginning to see that a wedding dress in Africa is important business. We lay the dress on a bench carefully in the airport lounge. When no one is looking I open up the dress and check it. Three security machines are a lot to go through. The dress is fine.

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The mother and the mother in law are now both carrying assistants and happy to be doing it. The stewardess on South African Airways decides that the best place will be to lay it flat in the overhead compartment and moves the luggage so the dress can lie flat.

We arrive in Capetown and rent cars. The dress rides in the bigger one and reaches the hotel in Capetown quickly and unscathed. The other car is lost.

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The dress rests in the closet for a week in Capetown and prepares for its final flight to Skukusa.

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There is one more airport and security machine to go.  Everyone is excited.

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The maid of honor has arrived and is carrying the dress with the bride.

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The dress waits quietly for the most important moment of its life as the rest of us eat breakfast in the airport.

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We land in Skukusa.

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It is a a very different kind of airport.

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The luggage is loaded one last time.

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The dress goes on its final portion of the journey on the back of a jeep for an hour through Kruger National Park. (Under the groom’s suit for protection.)

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The dress sees its first elephant up close in Africa and realizes that it is a long way from Vera Wang.

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Fly Safe,

JAZ

How To Plan A Wedding In South Africa From LA

“I’ll meet you at the altar. I’ll be the one in white!” Stephanie Meyer

My daughter is getting married (yay) in South Africa (double yay from a travel blogger) at a safari camp (triple yay- great photos) The boy is good too. And we like the parents and family. (yay yay yay yay)

Everything is going smoothly. Everyone is on the same page. We are all very polite, nice and funny. Will we all suddenly turn into the in-laws from Hell? Is there a moment where they will turn into bridezilla and groomzilla? Don’t those people start out normal as well? Is it some hormonal thing that happens with the most important day of your life?

It is easy for an American to legally get married in South Africa – especially if you are marrying into a South African family. Hopefully they will remember to do all the paperwork beforehand. You have to check the laws carefully when marrying in a foreign country to make sure it is legal in both countries.

 

Getting married on a game reserve is the ultimate destination wedding. Asking close friends and family to travel for 24 hours and take shots and malaria pills to come to your wedding is definitely different. Not asking close friends and family because the safari camp is very small is another problem. Having friends and family who are used to traveling internationally and the fact that many of the guests are South African made it a possible destination.

The decorations and flowers will be easy – lions, elephants and jungle foliage. I love a theme. Khaki or leopard print table cloths? Or is a jungle theme in the jungle too much? Is mosquito repellent a good wedding favor? What about the hairdresser, makeup artist, photographer and musicians? Will they be staying in tents? So many important decisions.

Luckily, there are a lot of new South African relatives who can help with logistics, local recommendations and information.

What could go wrong? Flying on a small plane to the site might cause a few panic attacks. Is this one of the countries that have tsetse flies or no? They don’t have Ebola right? Perhaps a few too many cocktails and you wander off and end up as lion dinner. Remember animals have much better night vision than you do.

I’m thinking wardrobe – Out of Africa meets LA hipsters. The photos will be spectacular.
I’ll keep you posted.

Fly safe,

JAZ

Ten Reasons To Visit South Africa

“If I know a song of Africa, of the giraffe and the African new moon lying on her back, of the plows in the fields and the sweaty faces of the coffee pickers, does Africa know a song of me? Will the air over the plain quiver with a color that I have had on, or the children invent a game in which my name is, or the full moon throw a shadow over the gravel of the drive that was like me, or will the eagles of the Ngong Hills look out for me?” Karen Blixen

Some of the greatest game viewing opportunities in the world are in South Africa. The chance to see the Big Five (Buffalo, Elephant, Rhino, Lion and Leopard) in their natural habitat is hard to ignore. The Big Five together with a wide range of other wildlife species can be found in more than 20 national wildlife reserves and many private game parks. Who knew the big five meant animals?

I love penguins. It surprised me that there are penguin colonies in Africa. The African penguin (or jackass penguins) are found on Boulder Beach near Cape Town in the Western Cape province of South Africa.

The flat top of Table Mountain shapes the skyline of Capetown. It is the icon of South Africa and voted one of the new Seven Wonders of Nature. It is one of the oldest mountains in the world and of the planet’s twelve main energy centers, radiating magnetic or spiritual energy.

Robben Island is where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. Mandela always carried himself as a human being while fighting injustice and inequality, The island is a piece of South African history and tours are given by former prisoners.

The Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg tells the Emotional story of South African discrimination by color and the fight to overcome it.

The townships in South Africa are the underdeveloped urban non white areas. Currently there are many programs to help develop the townships and I hope to see them.

The wineries of Capetown are known for world-class vintages and beautiful scenery. Though I’m not a big drinker, I do love visiting wineries when I travel. South African wines are really popular in California.

I love African choral music in the style of Ladysmith Black Mambazo. I hope to hear several of these traditional groups,

The rainbow nation, the unique complex history of South Africa,the diverse demographics, the people and interesting animals result in delicious dishes which are distinctly South African. Let the eating begin.

My daughter is getting married there.

Fly Safe,

JAZ

Killing Cecil The Lion In Africa

Killing Cecil The Lion In Africa

“Until we have the courage to recognize cruelty for what it is — whether its victim is human or animal — we cannot expect things to be much better in this world. We cannot have peace among men whose hearts delight in killing any living creature. By every act that glorifies or even tolerates such moronic delight in killing, we set back the progress of humanity.” Rachel Carson

There is a scene in the movie Dances With Wolves that I always remember. The “savage, wild Indians” come across many rotting dead buffalo killed by the white men. They stare in sadness and disbelief because they only killed an animal for food, took as much as they needed to survive and used every part of the animal. Killing them for any other reason was shocking to their culture.

I don’t understand killing unless it is in self-defense or for survival. To lure an animal out of a protected game park, for the reason of killing him slowly and painfully with a bow and arrow, and following him for forty hours to finally shoot him sounds diabolical.

Sport hunting is a violent form of recreation. I don’t get it. Why is it fun to kill innocent unsuspecting animals who have done nothing to you? Hunting has contributed to the extinction of species, disrupted migration and hibernation patterns, devastated animal communities , caused hours of unnecessary pain and suffering to animals before they die, and broken up families.

When the leader of a pride of lions is taken out as a trophy, the current pride must find itself a new male lion to fill this now empty role. When the new male lion comes in, he will systematically kill every lion cub that the old male lion produced, ensuring the future of the pride is his own lineage. If you are taking out male lions from prides even on a one per year basis, it’s not hard to imagine how cubs would have a hard time flourishing.

Big game hunting in Africa is trophy hunting, It contributes nothing to the African community development and seems to be about feeding the egos of the hunters. We are the only species that tortures and kills for amusement. Animals are being killed with devices such as guns and bows and arrows that they have no natural defenses against. If it is really about the beauty of a dead animal head on your wall, next time take a photo of a live one instead.

I heard that the American dentist was in hiding. He has become the prey that the predators are looking for. As he well knows, a man on a hunt is an animal to be feared.

Fly safe Cecil,

JAZ